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In 1984, then LA Times restaurant editor Ruth Reichl declared the burgeoning trend the end of “the tyranny of taste,” which had held fine dining under the reins of French, Italian, and “gourmet” cooking. The fusion cuisine of the late ’80s and early ’90s was the result of more chefs having access to more flavors and the slow uncrowning of French cuisine as the only cuisine worthy of fine dining. On its surface, this new chaotic cousin of fusion could just be born of a desire to shake off a few rules.

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Now, at his pop-ups, he prepares things like Amul mac and cheese, Kashmiri beef ribs, hot dogs with chaat masala giardiniera, and a juicy masala cheesesteak, and he’s partnered with Howdy Kolache to make beef keema and spinach paneer kolaches. “I thought, ‘I would like to eat a steak with Indian flavor on it, so I’ll just make that for myself because no restaurant’s going to serve that to me,’” he says.

Sheal Patel, the chef behind the Chicago pop-up Dhuaan BBQ, started cooking because he thought Indian flavors would go well with red meats that are more common in America. Part of the driving force behind many of these menus is chefs of color pushing back against the expectation that they must only cook the food of their families. “The diners need to just start understanding that we’re cooking our experiences, not our ethnicities.” “Sometimes you’re just at a Dodger game and you have a Dodger dog, and it has nothing to do with ethnicity,” he says. He felt strange cooking “authentic” Indian food as someone who was born in America, and he recognized he had other influences growing up in California that felt just as important to him as those of his family’s heritage. “I always wanted to cook Indian food, but I want to do it my way,” he says. And its practitioners just want everyone to lighten the hell up about food.Īvish Naran, founder of Pijja Palace, a wildly inventive and popular “Indian Sports Bar” in LA, says the process of coming up with a menu of dosa batter onion rings, saag paneer pizza, and brinjal curry pasta felt natural. These are big, gooey, macho menus that sound like four cuisines were stuck in the Large Hadron Collider on a dare. This is not the fusion of cooking Italian cuisine with Japanese technique and a tasteful splash of soy sauce.

There’s cajun red beans and rice on nachos and chorizo and queso on popcorn. There is cheeseburger arancini, Big Mac pizza, pastrami tacos, tandoori spaghetti, masala cheesesteaks, and biscuit and gravy pierogies. actually good.īut lately, a new crop of restaurants and pop-ups has begun serving not just fusion, but aggressive, weird, troll-y fusion that’s also thoughtful, being incredibly well received, and actually good. Though things like California Pizza Kitchen-esque buffalo chicken pizza and the monstrosity that is the sushirrito have never gone away since they appeared in the ’80s and ’90s, since then they have mostly been considered declasse novelties, cynical cash grabs, a taste that had to be defended in the face of literally any other option.Ī new crop of restaurants has begun serving not just fusion, but aggressive, weird, troll-y fusion that’s also thoughtful and. Reading the prospective menu, you’d be forgiven for thinking you have deja vu. “We can’t presume to know what diners are looking for in our space yet, since we’re not even open, but we hope they find a restaurant they love.” Dishes will include birria ramen, al pastor sushi rolls, sashimi tostadas, and shrimp teriyaki tacos. The “fusion” happening here is not meant to be about strict interpretations of one or the other cuisine, which means they can have some fun. The restaurant is meant to be a representation of his friendship with co-owner Marcelo Baez, and the long-standing relationship between Mexico and Japan, and the menu will be “our way of reasserting our identity while continuing to cherish our culture.” It’s a reflection of their experiences as Mexican and Japanese, yes, but also as DJs and party promoters and New Yorkers. “It’s just a practical description,” he says. Alex Watanabe does not mind that his new Mexican Japanese restaurant, set to open in December in the old Forlini’s space in downtown Manhattan, is being called “fusion” cuisine.